Kilimanjaro Adventure

The Kilimanjaro Adventure 2009

Chapter 1 Choosing the team and arrival

Often you have good ideas and then after a while you begin to realise that is not as easy as when you first thought of ‘ Another visit to the summit of Kilimanjaro!’ Of course at my age memories quickly fade and it all seemed a very easy climb three years ago or was it three years ago??!! Assembling a team to tackle this climb was no easy matter. There were many applicants and many that had to be rejected for a variety of social, physical, moral and mental reasons and some didn’t even have a good enough boots and some who weren’t up to the challenge, well or needed permission from their better halves!!!

I decided that an inter national team might bring an air of credibility to the climb and a certain status when meeting other groups on route. Fortunately an experienced French team were available who had a vast experience of climbing above 12000 ft and I believe, although this is highly secret, even took a cable car to this level to acclimatise. I hoped from the beginning it wouldn’t become that President Charles de Gaulle competitive thing between the French and English. Their team was made up of Daniel, Perrine , his daughter and their friends Marie and Michel. A very strong team. The choice of an English team was problematic. Fortunately my son was available having just completed his around the world trip (just thought you should know that) and he had vast experience of walking in a variety of high altitude places such as South America, Alaska, New Zealand, to name a few and he also had the funds to take part in the trip. Finally I needed another two intrepid walkers, with the right mix of experience and youth but it was difficult and finally had to settled for Jenny and Michele who had extensive experience on the promenade at Hastings and it was rumoured had walked in Wales and the Lake District. And they had a good reference from their Headteacher. But who could guide us on this adventure and we settled on the experience and youth of the James Kenny team. A good choice.

There was intense planning for several months and the occasional e-mails were exchanged. It was a miracle that they all landed on the same day 19^th August at Kilimanjaro Airport – David from Nairobi via New York, Jenny and Michele from London Heathrow and Daniel, Perrine and friends from Paris. But arrive they did, on time with all their documentation, jabs in order and most importantly with their bags. A luxury coach had been organised, a dala dala not in service, and they were quickly whisked from the airport without too much disturbance to the locals. The two hour drive to Mshiri Village went well until the driver fell asleep and it was only the alertness and prompt action of yours truly that a serious accident was avoided. Needless to say we were all very alert from then on. The French were provided with the luxury accommodation of the palace while the hardy English coped very well in the more spartan accommodation of the Guerba Computer Centre. My accommodation for the last 12 months. There was nearly a riot on the first day when my English found what our French friends received an extensive breakfast compared with toast that my guests received. But we are British!

Butchers shop

As many of you know I have been eating more and more vegetarian meals in the evening. The reason being is that I am trying to eat as they would eat and meat does not arrive on the table everyday. However, I do treat myself once a fortnight and a visit to the local butcher is always a welcomed distraction. I usually get Rogate, my house girl, to visit the butcher for me and my only instruction is that I would like steak. The quality of the meat depends how soon after the cow has been slaughter that you arrive at the shop. See the picture. They slaughter the cow and sell the meat always within one day. It is all done in the open air with the cow strung to the posts in the picture. Well you cant really call it a shop and you don’t really get butchered meat it is more like a hacked piece which often including a bit of everything meat, fat and bone. But Rogate is a wise shopper and always comes back with something worth eating.

Departure

Another three months have passed and an opportunity to come home as the schools close for 4 weeks. Each time I have returned home for a break I have either taken the Tanzanians I work with out for lunch or cooked a meal for them myself but this time I was told that they were cooking for me. All organised on the day that I left. A lovely surprise Everybody contributed to the food and it was cooked on an open fire and would you believe banana stew but there was a feast. It took most of the morning to prepare. Would you believe they bought 7 Kilimanjaro beers for me!! Fortunately I had the ‘Gaps’ there and they helped me out. I thought a lovely surprise and a wonderful lunch with songs and a little dancing. I enclose a few pictures taken at the event. Thank you to my Tanzanian friends.

Things I like

There are many things that I love about this country and where I am living.  Firstly the climate, despite the present rainy season, it is  such a contrast to the UK. When it rains, as I’ve said before, it is warm rain. The locals think it is cold but they don’t know the English cold.  But more importantly it passes, usually very quickly, and the sun returns.  Yesterday was a point in question the clouds were right down on the mountain giving a damp feel to the day, I walked to my school with my umbrella up but by mid afternoon it was a different day and as I returned from school it was down to short sleeves again.  Secondly there is wonderful countryside.  If you are a walker, like me, it is paradise and I often pinch myself as I walk these wonderful valleys and pathways.  At the moment I could be walking through English countryside and forests. I explore new routes all the time and sometimes even get lost. The other day took a new route and found that the river was too high for the stepping stones and so shoes off and I wade across. There is constant dapple light and scented smells in the mornings.  There is still so much to explore.  Then of course there is the mountain.  You wouldn’t know it was there over the last few days but today there was clear skies and there it stands in all its majesty with its icing on top.  For me when I see it there  it is always a beckoning to climb.  But the most important thing that endears me to this country is the people.  Their generosity of spirit, the community feeling you get and their willingness to welcome you into their homes. They look out for each other. They have so little but offer such a lot.  The other day I was walking from the village in a thunder storm and I was very wet when I passed a house and they insisted I come in to shelter and of course as soon as you enter some ones house it is their custom to offer refreshment.  A hot cup of tea  followed and I sat there dripping wet on their carpet drinking tea. I meet many people as I walk to schools and to the village who usually want to talk to me, to know what I am going.  These of course are acquaintances but they ask your name and when they see you next they great you with it.  But unfortunately Bob and Babu – grandfather in Swahili sound very much the same!!  But for me the thing that I value the most is the friendships that have been established. The people I work with directly with who look after me and care for me. Mama Mlay from the project shop who always is concerned for me and pleased to see me.  Mama Sandi who I work with everyday who has a very phlegmatic view of life.  Fadhili, one of my headteachers, who always calls me sir and has so much patience with me.  Rogate, my house girl, who is so cheerful and nothing is too much trouble.  Then there is Gladness, my adopted daughter, and her daughter Elizabeth.   There are many more who share my life and help to shape my perspective.  There is much to learn and understand. But I do miss home. I will be pleased return to the UK on the 9^th June for one month and look forward to seeing my  UK friends.

The Masai

I think most of you know I have a Masia warrior acting as night watchmen.  His role is to keep the accommodation safe at night.  There are a group of them, 7 at the last count who live in a hut next to my accommodation and look after all the different properties that are sponsored by the project.  Over the last few months I have got to know them better.  Ever since I went out and shared a few drams of whisky one night before they went on duty we have become very friendly. It has now become Bob’s ritual! They have a culture that still thrives and even these Masai that are working for the project keep to some of their traditions.  It is a very interesting culture and way of life.  They live mainly in Kenya and Tanzania.  The rituals of becoming a warrior are well documented and involve age-based rituals and ceremonies, including circumcision.  I wondered why they have this reputation for being fierce!!  The biggest role of the Masai culture is the role of the warrior and hence they make very good night watchmen because everybody is frightened of them. I have become very attached to them because once a week they perform the Masai Jumping Dance and sing their songs.  It is something to listen to and watch from my lounge window.  Each young man will jump as high as he can while others are standing in a circle and singing.  The voices of the men get higher as the jumping increases.  You can see from the photos that they allowed me to take that they achieve the most unbelievable height. These lads aren’t jumping in soft padded shoes.  In fact tonight I saw one jumping without shoes, on the hard concrete.  Yes they jump in the gazebo, which has a concrete floor.  What it does to their Achilles tendon I don’t know. I invited them all for lunch last Sunday.  Bob’s shepherd’s pie was on the agenda specially chosen for their culture.  The centre of all Masai culture is the tending of cattle. Shepherd!? Pie!? I think the connection was lost on them and anyway the shepherd’s pie became modified, as there was no oven because the electricity was off all day.  It’s amazing how you improvise when you have to and my camp cooking skills are still with me.  I cooked on two kerosene stoves.  I decided not to insist on a knife and fork!  Quantity was the order of the day and double portions went down well.  It was a very interesting afternoon as they hardly spoke a work of English and my Masai was somewhat missing.  But it’s amazing how you can converse with little common language.  Of course I bet you can guess what we finished with – yes a few more drams of whisky.  I attach some photos of them jumping but these lads, although fierce are also gentle as seen with Mama Gladness’s young daughter Elizabeth.  I am also now an honorary member of the Masia hence my new dress attire.  Happy days!!  I have Masai blanket and all the gear as you can see but I it was a little too draughty for me.

Play Leaders Training

Well another week passes and where does the time go.  I was laid low for almost a week which seemed to drag on with a nagging headache.  I was advised to visit the local hospital but had some reluctance having met a Swedish Dentist on one of my visits to the Marangu Hotel who told me she was horrified at the lack of hygiene in operation.  However the headaches continued and eventually last Thursday Dilly (the project leader’s Tanzanian husband) said he would take me to a private hospital In Moshi to have my blood checked.  Thankfully the malaria parasite was not in my blood. I was advised to drink more water which I did and took some salt replacements and never looked back. I must say the Doctor was a very shrewd man who told me I had the body and heart of a 30 year old, well I think that’s what he said.  I could have lost something in the translation – it could have been 300?? Anyway I was raring to go last Monday and started my Play Leaders Training with Standard 7 in one school and Standard 6 in another.  Of course all the old skills came back. These pupils are to be seen to be believed.  They were so enthusiastic and eager to take part.  The simplest of games were devoured and developed quickly.  Its hard to comprehend but they want to please, eager to help and hang on your every word.  It reminds me of my teaching when I started in 1968!!!  They were a joy to teach.   Needless to say I was the one tired out at the end of the session.  They loved the equipment.  Time to give a big plug for Mrs Evans of Evans of Longton who kindly sponsored these activities by supplying bags of equipment and paying for it to be flown out to Tanzania.  Thank you Mrs Evans.  At the moment I have made little progress into the leading bit of the programme as there is still too much individual pupil enjoyment and learning of games taking place.  But I love it myself for its very rewarding to have pupils waiting for you to arrive and whose faces light up as soon as you arrive.  Here are some pictures of the pupils in action.

Dini Sessions

Well another two weeks have passed and I’m not sure where the time has gone. I am in the schools constantly.   I love my work in the schools and it brings its own rewards.  I feel I am making some progress with the staff, who are now engaging in the weekly Dini sessions where I deliver a different topic each week.  The aim being to improve their knowledge and understanding of the subject topics and in particular mathematics, which the Government have identified as a real weakness in schools.  I am teaching them using what in Tanzania they call participatory learning and we in the UK would view as active learning.  I constantly have to find ways of delivery where the teachers actually have tasks to do rather than listen to me talk.   It is working but I spend each weekend planning the next session.  I am also delivering lessons either as demonstration lessons with all the teachers watching or team teaching with an individual teacher.  I recently planned a English lesson on time and made 10 clocks out of card and then had the pupils working in small groups of 4, using their own clock to set each other times which they then had to identify.  The best part  of the series of lessons was when I asked them to make their own clock and gave them each a split pin each to attach the fingers.  Would you believe almost every child made their own clock.  I attach a picture of one of the series of lessons.  Note the state of the classrooms and no ceilings!!  Its all good fun.  I have now started my Play Leaders training for standard 7 pupils.  They are so enthusiastic.  I should have some pictures to share with you next week.  I have been laid low over the last four days with a tummy bug.  Picked up when visiting another ill colleague.  It was a long walk to this colleagues house and I was perspiring a little when I arrived.  She offered me some diluted orange squash and I didn’t ask the question – has the water been boiled and it clearly hadn’t.  I was in bed the first day, all day and didn’t see a soul and felt quite sorry for my self.  I wondered at one point if I died how long would it be before they found the body!!  Morbid thoughts.  Its at times like these that you want to be in your own home.  Well that’s it for now.  I attach a superb picture taken of Kilimanjaro with full snow covering.  Hope you like this Jenny, Daniel and David!!!

Safari to Lake Manyara

Well almost two weeks have passed since I arrived back in Tanzania.  I feel as though I have never been away.  You quickly click into the polypoly way of life.  In fact you have to or it would drive you nuts.  Time means nothing out here. The Swahili  word for punctuality I think is - kuwahi but I'm not sure that Tanzanians be fully understand what it means.  Yesterday, Saturday, I invited a group of pupils from one of my schools  to watch an episode of Planet Earth.  They should have arrived at 2 pm but the first arrived at 2.45 and the last at 3.30.  They looked in awe throughout as the images they see are so new.  This week I showed the episode on Jungles - Equatorial Jungles.  They have one on their door step but know so little about it other than it valuable for firewood. I will tell you more about this weekly events on a later posting.  Now I want to tell you about my recent safari to Lake Manyara which I had the opportunity to go with a group of pupils before I came home for Easter.  Its an annual trip that the Village Project organises.  The only thing that put me off was the thought of a 5 hour journey there and back. I accompanied the Gap students and teachers from the school.  The management of the pupils on the bus was a piece of cake.  You wouldn’t have known there were any children there until the black bags that they had all been issued with came into operation.  I think almost all of them were sick.  Travelling on a bus on a long journey was a new experience for them.  But they didn’t complain once.  Can you imagine in UK?  The pupils stayed in a hostel adjacent to the park, looked after by the teachers, and the other adults slept in tents.  One of the worst areas for mosquitoes !!!  I have never really been interested in doing a safari but once we arrived in the park the tension and excitement of the children was infectious and as soon as we moved off into the bush (travelled on bus) the animals appeared like magic.   Every animal you could name.  I have loads of pictures, if anyone to would like me to come and bore you with them , let me know! I include only two in this posting.  They are the pictures of an elephant.  We suddenly came upon this elephant and stopped to observe when suddenly his ears extended and he moved towards us.  The driver beat a very hasty retreat.  I was told later that the movement of the ears indicated that he was about to charge!  The children had never seen many of these animals despite the fact they are native to their country.  It was an exciting two days and the journey home passed quickly, thanks to the Gap students who led the children in  a countless number of animated songs.  Can’t wait for the next safari.
    

Back online

Hello all

I am now back in Tanzania arriving on the 22nd April.  There have been no posting since my last one in February because there has been no internet.  I wonder how we ever manage without it!!!  In fact I have managed very well because I have written several letters to friends and family.  Yes me writing letters.  Although my mobile phone bill needed a loan.  Its good to be back with internet restored and be able to share some of my experiences with you. (by the way you can e mail me anytime you like - day or night) I was in England for 4 weeks of which I spend 10 days with my daughter in London and my grand daughter.  How she has changed already.  She will be one on May 20th.  Time seemed to fly by but I managed to paint my conservatory and lick the garden  boarders back into shape and attack the moss in the lawn.  For those dear friends I spent time with thank you for your generosity and hospitality.  But I must say the eating out and in became too much and the stone in weight I lost has been almost recouped. It is good to be back  to Ragate's cooking and simple meals although I was in a school on Thursday and the large bowl of rice and fish and greens was too much.  They did allow me to take a small portion of it and the rest I'm sure went to a good cause. Its good to be back with my Tanzanian friends and they seemed genuinely pleased to see me.  But the box of M&S chocolate biscuits were well received in the first school I visited.  I must say it seems as though I have never been away and the polypoly way of life soon clicks in. I was told, before I arrived, that it was cold and rainy.  They think 15c is cold!  It is more rainy and has rained everyday but would you believe it is warm rain and 30 minutes after it has rained the sun comes out and all is as it was.  I do love this climate.  So you can see I am back in action and would love to hear from anybody out there.  Even David Baggerly!!  Here are a couple of my first pictures.  Guess what!!? 

Work in schools

Another week flashes by but time seems to stand still here! I have had an interesting week in schools this week.  My sessions with the teachers, there are two a week, have been enjoyable and I think well received.  Both the schools I have worked with have responded positively to the sessions. Well at least they joined in.  The focus has been management in the classroom and all teachers have thoughts, experiences and views to share.  There has been lively debate.  The aims of the sessions have been to encourage teachers to share their experiences and to come to a common understanding.  I have also continued my work with table tennis and have this week started delivering sport sessions to 14 to 16 year olds and you know how challenging that can be even without the language barrier.  Also observed some physical education lessons which the pupils are very enthusiastic about.  Here are few pictures to share with you.

Return to Tanzania

You might all be wondering what's happened to me?  There again you might not!  I returned to Tanzania on the 13th January and will be here until the 24th March.  I can't believe that I have been here already for three weeks.  Although time means little out here it certainly passes quickly. Although it was great to be home, and thank you to all those friends who made me so welcome, it is strangely good to be back. I have developed a real affection for the country, its customs and its way of life and in particular its climate.  The simple way of life suits me.  I enjoy the slowly slowly. For me its like going through a time warp - back to the 50's when people cared about each other, neighbours looked after each other, people talked to each other and no cars.  However, I can no longer say that it never rains because this week it has rained everyday in the afternoon and last night there was a mighty thunderstorm that kept me awake because of the beating rain on the tin roof. Yet it is still relatively warm and despite the rain I have been walking to the schools in a short sleeved shirt everyday, even when its raining. Warm rain!?  It was good to be back in the schools and teachers seemed pleased to see me but it might have been the chocolate I brought back and shared with them.  I have already been higher up the mountain and sat in my favourite spot and the photos attached are shots of the mountain from there.  I have also brought out with me a telescope because the sky at night is something to see.  Thank you Stephen Bell.  However at the moment there is too much to take in.  I have been looking at Venus and see the twinkling star as a shining planet.  Its remarkable.  I also have some playmates out here now with the arrival of the Gap students who are here for 7 months teaching English and a new lady managing the Vocational Training Centre.  Evenings are no longer so empty.  Well thats it for now.  I will soon be back in the routine of regular updates.  Love to all.