Kilimanjaro Adventure

The Kilimanjaro Adventure 2009

Chapter 1 Choosing the team and arrival

Often you have good ideas and then after a while you begin to realise that is not as easy as when you first thought of ‘ Another visit to the summit of Kilimanjaro!’ Of course at my age memories quickly fade and it all seemed a very easy climb three years ago or was it three years ago??!! Assembling a team to tackle this climb was no easy matter. There were many applicants and many that had to be rejected for a variety of social, physical, moral and mental reasons and some didn’t even have a good enough boots and some who weren’t up to the challenge, well or needed permission from their better halves!!!

I decided that an inter national team might bring an air of credibility to the climb and a certain status when meeting other groups on route. Fortunately an experienced French team were available who had a vast experience of climbing above 12000 ft and I believe, although this is highly secret, even took a cable car to this level to acclimatise. I hoped from the beginning it wouldn’t become that President Charles de Gaulle competitive thing between the French and English. Their team was made up of Daniel, Perrine , his daughter and their friends Marie and Michel. A very strong team. The choice of an English team was problematic. Fortunately my son was available having just completed his around the world trip (just thought you should know that) and he had vast experience of walking in a variety of high altitude places such as South America, Alaska, New Zealand, to name a few and he also had the funds to take part in the trip. Finally I needed another two intrepid walkers, with the right mix of experience and youth but it was difficult and finally had to settled for Jenny and Michele who had extensive experience on the promenade at Hastings and it was rumoured had walked in Wales and the Lake District. And they had a good reference from their Headteacher. But who could guide us on this adventure and we settled on the experience and youth of the James Kenny team. A good choice.

There was intense planning for several months and the occasional e-mails were exchanged. It was a miracle that they all landed on the same day 19^th August at Kilimanjaro Airport – David from Nairobi via New York, Jenny and Michele from London Heathrow and Daniel, Perrine and friends from Paris. But arrive they did, on time with all their documentation, jabs in order and most importantly with their bags. A luxury coach had been organised, a dala dala not in service, and they were quickly whisked from the airport without too much disturbance to the locals. The two hour drive to Mshiri Village went well until the driver fell asleep and it was only the alertness and prompt action of yours truly that a serious accident was avoided. Needless to say we were all very alert from then on. The French were provided with the luxury accommodation of the palace while the hardy English coped very well in the more spartan accommodation of the Guerba Computer Centre. My accommodation for the last 12 months. There was nearly a riot on the first day when my English found what our French friends received an extensive breakfast compared with toast that my guests received. But we are British!

Butchers shop

As many of you know I have been eating more and more vegetarian meals in the evening. The reason being is that I am trying to eat as they would eat and meat does not arrive on the table everyday. However, I do treat myself once a fortnight and a visit to the local butcher is always a welcomed distraction. I usually get Rogate, my house girl, to visit the butcher for me and my only instruction is that I would like steak. The quality of the meat depends how soon after the cow has been slaughter that you arrive at the shop. See the picture. They slaughter the cow and sell the meat always within one day. It is all done in the open air with the cow strung to the posts in the picture. Well you cant really call it a shop and you don’t really get butchered meat it is more like a hacked piece which often including a bit of everything meat, fat and bone. But Rogate is a wise shopper and always comes back with something worth eating.

Departure

Another three months have passed and an opportunity to come home as the schools close for 4 weeks. Each time I have returned home for a break I have either taken the Tanzanians I work with out for lunch or cooked a meal for them myself but this time I was told that they were cooking for me. All organised on the day that I left. A lovely surprise Everybody contributed to the food and it was cooked on an open fire and would you believe banana stew but there was a feast. It took most of the morning to prepare. Would you believe they bought 7 Kilimanjaro beers for me!! Fortunately I had the ‘Gaps’ there and they helped me out. I thought a lovely surprise and a wonderful lunch with songs and a little dancing. I enclose a few pictures taken at the event. Thank you to my Tanzanian friends.

Things I like

There are many things that I love about this country and where I am living.  Firstly the climate, despite the present rainy season, it is  such a contrast to the UK. When it rains, as I’ve said before, it is warm rain. The locals think it is cold but they don’t know the English cold.  But more importantly it passes, usually very quickly, and the sun returns.  Yesterday was a point in question the clouds were right down on the mountain giving a damp feel to the day, I walked to my school with my umbrella up but by mid afternoon it was a different day and as I returned from school it was down to short sleeves again.  Secondly there is wonderful countryside.  If you are a walker, like me, it is paradise and I often pinch myself as I walk these wonderful valleys and pathways.  At the moment I could be walking through English countryside and forests. I explore new routes all the time and sometimes even get lost. The other day took a new route and found that the river was too high for the stepping stones and so shoes off and I wade across. There is constant dapple light and scented smells in the mornings.  There is still so much to explore.  Then of course there is the mountain.  You wouldn’t know it was there over the last few days but today there was clear skies and there it stands in all its majesty with its icing on top.  For me when I see it there  it is always a beckoning to climb.  But the most important thing that endears me to this country is the people.  Their generosity of spirit, the community feeling you get and their willingness to welcome you into their homes. They look out for each other. They have so little but offer such a lot.  The other day I was walking from the village in a thunder storm and I was very wet when I passed a house and they insisted I come in to shelter and of course as soon as you enter some ones house it is their custom to offer refreshment.  A hot cup of tea  followed and I sat there dripping wet on their carpet drinking tea. I meet many people as I walk to schools and to the village who usually want to talk to me, to know what I am going.  These of course are acquaintances but they ask your name and when they see you next they great you with it.  But unfortunately Bob and Babu – grandfather in Swahili sound very much the same!!  But for me the thing that I value the most is the friendships that have been established. The people I work with directly with who look after me and care for me. Mama Mlay from the project shop who always is concerned for me and pleased to see me.  Mama Sandi who I work with everyday who has a very phlegmatic view of life.  Fadhili, one of my headteachers, who always calls me sir and has so much patience with me.  Rogate, my house girl, who is so cheerful and nothing is too much trouble.  Then there is Gladness, my adopted daughter, and her daughter Elizabeth.   There are many more who share my life and help to shape my perspective.  There is much to learn and understand. But I do miss home. I will be pleased return to the UK on the 9^th June for one month and look forward to seeing my  UK friends.

The Masai

I think most of you know I have a Masia warrior acting as night watchmen.  His role is to keep the accommodation safe at night.  There are a group of them, 7 at the last count who live in a hut next to my accommodation and look after all the different properties that are sponsored by the project.  Over the last few months I have got to know them better.  Ever since I went out and shared a few drams of whisky one night before they went on duty we have become very friendly. It has now become Bob’s ritual! They have a culture that still thrives and even these Masai that are working for the project keep to some of their traditions.  It is a very interesting culture and way of life.  They live mainly in Kenya and Tanzania.  The rituals of becoming a warrior are well documented and involve age-based rituals and ceremonies, including circumcision.  I wondered why they have this reputation for being fierce!!  The biggest role of the Masai culture is the role of the warrior and hence they make very good night watchmen because everybody is frightened of them. I have become very attached to them because once a week they perform the Masai Jumping Dance and sing their songs.  It is something to listen to and watch from my lounge window.  Each young man will jump as high as he can while others are standing in a circle and singing.  The voices of the men get higher as the jumping increases.  You can see from the photos that they allowed me to take that they achieve the most unbelievable height. These lads aren’t jumping in soft padded shoes.  In fact tonight I saw one jumping without shoes, on the hard concrete.  Yes they jump in the gazebo, which has a concrete floor.  What it does to their Achilles tendon I don’t know. I invited them all for lunch last Sunday.  Bob’s shepherd’s pie was on the agenda specially chosen for their culture.  The centre of all Masai culture is the tending of cattle. Shepherd!? Pie!? I think the connection was lost on them and anyway the shepherd’s pie became modified, as there was no oven because the electricity was off all day.  It’s amazing how you improvise when you have to and my camp cooking skills are still with me.  I cooked on two kerosene stoves.  I decided not to insist on a knife and fork!  Quantity was the order of the day and double portions went down well.  It was a very interesting afternoon as they hardly spoke a work of English and my Masai was somewhat missing.  But it’s amazing how you can converse with little common language.  Of course I bet you can guess what we finished with – yes a few more drams of whisky.  I attach some photos of them jumping but these lads, although fierce are also gentle as seen with Mama Gladness’s young daughter Elizabeth.  I am also now an honorary member of the Masia hence my new dress attire.  Happy days!!  I have Masai blanket and all the gear as you can see but I it was a little too draughty for me.

Play Leaders Training

Well another week passes and where does the time go.  I was laid low for almost a week which seemed to drag on with a nagging headache.  I was advised to visit the local hospital but had some reluctance having met a Swedish Dentist on one of my visits to the Marangu Hotel who told me she was horrified at the lack of hygiene in operation.  However the headaches continued and eventually last Thursday Dilly (the project leader’s Tanzanian husband) said he would take me to a private hospital In Moshi to have my blood checked.  Thankfully the malaria parasite was not in my blood. I was advised to drink more water which I did and took some salt replacements and never looked back. I must say the Doctor was a very shrewd man who told me I had the body and heart of a 30 year old, well I think that’s what he said.  I could have lost something in the translation – it could have been 300?? Anyway I was raring to go last Monday and started my Play Leaders Training with Standard 7 in one school and Standard 6 in another.  Of course all the old skills came back. These pupils are to be seen to be believed.  They were so enthusiastic and eager to take part.  The simplest of games were devoured and developed quickly.  Its hard to comprehend but they want to please, eager to help and hang on your every word.  It reminds me of my teaching when I started in 1968!!!  They were a joy to teach.   Needless to say I was the one tired out at the end of the session.  They loved the equipment.  Time to give a big plug for Mrs Evans of Evans of Longton who kindly sponsored these activities by supplying bags of equipment and paying for it to be flown out to Tanzania.  Thank you Mrs Evans.  At the moment I have made little progress into the leading bit of the programme as there is still too much individual pupil enjoyment and learning of games taking place.  But I love it myself for its very rewarding to have pupils waiting for you to arrive and whose faces light up as soon as you arrive.  Here are some pictures of the pupils in action.

Dini Sessions

Well another two weeks have passed and I’m not sure where the time has gone. I am in the schools constantly.   I love my work in the schools and it brings its own rewards.  I feel I am making some progress with the staff, who are now engaging in the weekly Dini sessions where I deliver a different topic each week.  The aim being to improve their knowledge and understanding of the subject topics and in particular mathematics, which the Government have identified as a real weakness in schools.  I am teaching them using what in Tanzania they call participatory learning and we in the UK would view as active learning.  I constantly have to find ways of delivery where the teachers actually have tasks to do rather than listen to me talk.   It is working but I spend each weekend planning the next session.  I am also delivering lessons either as demonstration lessons with all the teachers watching or team teaching with an individual teacher.  I recently planned a English lesson on time and made 10 clocks out of card and then had the pupils working in small groups of 4, using their own clock to set each other times which they then had to identify.  The best part  of the series of lessons was when I asked them to make their own clock and gave them each a split pin each to attach the fingers.  Would you believe almost every child made their own clock.  I attach a picture of one of the series of lessons.  Note the state of the classrooms and no ceilings!!  Its all good fun.  I have now started my Play Leaders training for standard 7 pupils.  They are so enthusiastic.  I should have some pictures to share with you next week.  I have been laid low over the last four days with a tummy bug.  Picked up when visiting another ill colleague.  It was a long walk to this colleagues house and I was perspiring a little when I arrived.  She offered me some diluted orange squash and I didn’t ask the question – has the water been boiled and it clearly hadn’t.  I was in bed the first day, all day and didn’t see a soul and felt quite sorry for my self.  I wondered at one point if I died how long would it be before they found the body!!  Morbid thoughts.  Its at times like these that you want to be in your own home.  Well that’s it for now.  I attach a superb picture taken of Kilimanjaro with full snow covering.  Hope you like this Jenny, Daniel and David!!!