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You might be wondering why there has not been a recent update on my blog - no its not that I have been eaten by a lion or bitten by a poisonous snake or offended a local father of this very attractive young lady I have met.  Its not even because the Tanzanian Government have asked me to the leave the country because of my radical out spoken changes I want to instigate.  I think the attached picture explains all.  However I wonder why I have come back to the cold and rain and the economy that seems to be  in melt down.  Its great to see lots of friends - yes I do have one or two and I am still looking forward to seeing those friends who are trying to avoid me.  But I do miss my new Tanzanian friends who I have learnt much from over the last few months and in particular what is valuable in (my) life.  By the way the winner of the puzzle is Di Shanley for her caption of 'Pigs might fly'.  The Stairway to heaven is a funeral parlour and the pig was tethered outside this awaiting its fate.  The lucky lady is being taken out for a romantic meal for two with me!!!  But she doesn't know yet.  I return to Tanzania on the 13th January.  Happy Christmas to you all.

The Social Gathering

As many of you know I am working mainly with three schools. These first few months have been essential in the building up of good positive relationships with the teachers in the schools.  I thought it would be useful to meet the teachers socially to develop these relationships by inviting them for a meal at my house.  The first teachers invited were from Masia Mamba.  I hope I haven't paid a too bleak a picture of my accommodation because apart from the continuous loss of electricity it is very good.  There were 10 to be accommodated which I just managed around my table as you can see from the first photograph.  I decided we would have pre-drinks in the gazebo with a few nibbles before then moving inside to eat.  That was my first hurdle - what should I cook. I decided on a starter of tuna with salad to be followed by Bob's version of bubble and squeak and followed by an assortment of cheese and finally finish with yogurt and fresh pineapple.  I have a small oven  which has two rings and two kerosene burners. The morning didn't start well with no electricity but I didn't panic.  The bubble and squeak is a beef dish with onions, carrots and leaks with a topping of  potatoes and cabbage.  Thankfully the electricity came on just as I put the two dishes, precariously balanced in the oven, to cook.  The guests should have arrived at 2 pm and by 2.30 I began to get worried.  Had they mixed up the time thinking I meant Swahili time.  That's another thing to tell you about - Swahili time!! Another time perhaps. They arrived at 3 pm (Andy Page and Sandra all is forgiven- an in joke with friends who are always late)  just as I began to think about abandonment and opening a lunchtime stall in the gazebo. Time means nothing to them and arriving at a set time unknown!  They all but 1 drank beer and thankfully I had purchased a grate of Kilimanjaros. The pre-drinks and nibbles went down well.  We didn't sit down until four and thankfully because the electricity is so low the food was just cooked to a turn.  The food went down really well and the conversation flowed for the next two hours.   They have the same hang ups, aspirations, fears, desires and needs as all my friends!   A home from home.  They loved the food and the different courses.   They particularly liked the yogurt which they had never had before.   Although I was amazed when they asked why the lettuce was not cooked.  We drank much beer and finished with a nice local coffee and whisky.   They now think I am the best thing since sliced bread!! But I think its cupboard love!!! 

The Weather

Every since I have been here in Tanzania I have done nothing but talk to my friends in England about this wonderful weather and the constant sunshine.  I am sure they are tired about me going on about beautiful sunrises with the sun pouring into my bedroom every morning and the magic sunsets.  But I am not sorry to say they are wonderful.  There has been the occasional drop of rain which has tended to fall in the evening and through the night.  Which is of course very convenient.  However, just so you don't think I have it all too easy I attach a few photographs of children going to school in the rain. Taken from my bedroom window.  Yes I said rain!! During the day!!!I t was raining so heavily I could not imagine that anybody would be outside but these children were making their way to school at 6.45 am to start their morning cleaning duties. Can you imagine children in England being do dedicated? Did they get wet!! They must have sat in wet cloths all day. But on the final note you will pleased to hear that by lunchtime the rain had gone the sun 'had its hat off' and all was back to normal.  But I must say the weather has changed - its getting hotter and every evening we have convectional wind rolling off the mountain and a few thunderstorms with such lightening I have never seen and such thunder.  Its particularly frightening as its directly overhead but what a display.  Thought you might like to see last nights sunset - spectacular.  Its all too much !

The Funeral

Living next to the local church has many advantages.  The bells wake you up every morning at 5.30 am on a weekday and 5 am on Sunday and so there is no need for an alarm clock!! They have the most beautiful church choirs and they often rehearse outside.  I can sit in my bedroom and hear this most beautiful sound. I have bought one of their cds and it is moving music. There could be copies in Christmas stockings this year.  Kings College, Cambridge, choir eat your heart out.  I also go and listen to them and the first time I thought it was recorded music and not live singing. it was so good. The other big advantage for me is that every Sunday I see the local community in their Sunday best. The children look so perfect with dresses, smart trousers and cleaned shoes.  A great contrast to when I see them pass my window on the way to school in their blue uniforms or when I pass them playing out in their 'playing cloths'.  But I also see the church in action when there is a funeral.  The church bells sound and the congregation troop behind a band to and from the church.  The pictures with this blog so such a funeral.  

The Puzzle

Thank you to all those friends that attempted to solve the puzzle.  Here are a few of the hundreds that responded:

"  Does the pig represent the restraint and bestial nature of modern living and the little hut the freedom of your current life style?"

" Venue haul for birthday bash?"

"Is the access to the platform where your looking forward to eating bar-b-qd pork chops"

"Are you missing the heavenly smell of bacon?"

"Have you been converted to a Led Zeplin fan?  Pigs might fly?"

Because of the vast and varied response the competition will remain open until the 27th November!!  For my French friends who ask about the valuable prize.  This will remain a close guarded secret until the 28th November. 

The attached picture is a rare one and will one day be a valuable possession!!  Keep blogging! 

Moshi Market

Moshi is the nearest town to where I live and its where I shop for major European type food like Orange Juice and New Zealand cheese and proper bread and yogurt - those little luxuries that I haven't yet left behind.  Normally I travel there by the Dala Dala but of late I have had the opportunity to travel there using the  Project car.  A lovely white Suzuki.  It is always an interesting journey because there is much to see as you drive through different small villages on the main route and hardly any other transport other than occasional heavy lorries or large buses from Dar es Salaam or of course the Dala Dala.  But you have to keep your level of concentration high as there are big bumps/ sleeping policemen to negotiate and they often come at the most unexpected time.  When I came out here last February I travelled to Kilimanjaro airport in the evening and followed a tipper lorry who obviously missed a bump and hit it too fast and his tailgate flew open and dumped 3 ton of sand and gravel onto the road which we narrowly missed and did it again at the next bump before we flagged him down.  So even in the daylight you have to give full attention.  But the purpose of this posting on the blog is to show the pictures of the market in Moshi and I have been distracted!! My age I think!!??  In Moshi  this is a covered market and you can buy anything there.  I go just for the food and particularly the vegetables and there is always hard negotiation.  I bought  a cabbage last week that started at 1000/- but actually finally bort for 500/-. It helps of course if you have fluent swahili!!  But it is very interesting and I love to visit. Enjoy the pictures.

The significant pictures?

I am learning more and more about the way of life her in Tanzania and in particular in Mshiri Village where I live.  I am following a teach yourself Swahili course and there are real protocols in addressing people.  Who speaks first and the response you should give to the greeting.  The unfortunate thing for me is by the time I've spoken what I want to say they have gone passed and even if I rehearse what I'm going to say as they approach their response is different. It is all related to age, the time of day, whether your walking uphill or down hill. I've come to the conclusion if I mumble everything I know as they pass it seems to work. They keep you guessing  So I attach two pictures with this blog and provide a puzzle.   I would like you to identify the link between the two pictures and their significance.   You can comment on the blog.  I'm got to find some way of seeing if people are reading the blog. Very valuable prizes for the right response!!

Left holding the baby

You never know when skills you learned years ago will be needed.  At a recent leaving gathering for an employee of the Project there was a need for me to leap into the breach.  Gladness's baby, Elizabeth, required holding while mother was eating.  She is a beautiful baby, even when awake, and the gentleness of  my holding thankfully kept her asleep. But you never loose the old skills

Childrens' lot seems a happy one

Life out here for children can be a very busy one.  Once school is over and at weekends and even each morning you will see them busy doing a whole lot of chores.  For some it is the daily carrying of water from the stream source to their home.  For others it can be the washing of their cloths in the local stream or sweeping paths and often working in the garden watering the plants or cutting grass for their cattle. They certainly earn their keep Despite all they have to do they always pleased to see you and the greeting is always the same Good morning sir! How are you!  You always go through the ritual of giving them the opportunity to see the few words that they have learned at school.  You always ask them their name.  And course there is lots of play - very primitive play. The sort that the more mature of us engaged in when we were children. No fancy equpment or computer games.  I've seen the equivalent of hop scotch.  Their balls are made out of paper tightly wrapped in string and they play football continually and what skill. The best views of them are on Sunday when they trip passed my house in their Sunday best.  You wouldn't recognise them.

Visit to Dar es Salaam

Two weeks ago I travelled to Dar es Salaam, the capital of Tanzania to  obtain a certificate of  exemption which would allow me to work in Tanzania for the coming year.  I flew to Dar' on the way out and travelled back by coach to enable me to see a little more of the countryside. The flight out was spectacular because I managed to take a photograph of Kilimanjaro majestically rising above the clouds and the cloud formations were also special. 

I had to pick up my permit from the Ministry of Immigration but involved journeys to Ministry of Education and Internal affairs before I finally received the permit.  It was touch and go if we would receive it before out departure.  But the Immigration official took pity on us when we said we were traveling back to Maragangu Mtoni the next day and we got it at the end of the day.

I didn't see much of Dar' it was a typical large city and the major port for imports into Africa.  But visited some nice restaurants and had cocktails at the KIlimanjaro hotel overlooking the harbour.  But my interesting two days were not over!!  The bus ride back to Marangu Toni should have taken 8 hours but it took twelve hours because there was a crash on a one way bridge and we were held up in a  2 hour stand off with no traffic moving and nobody willing to give way.  There was a police station on the bridge but they stayed inside until it was sorted by a member of the public.  The bus driver then drove continually for 6 hours trying to make up time with only a 20 minute stop.  I was on the front seat and had my eyes glued to him looking for any signs of tiredness.  I noted that he drank a can of Red Bull.  I was delighted to get off the bus and return to the slowly slowly of my village.  A trip to remember

The Dala Dala

To visit the nearest town Moshi which is 40 miles away.    You first have to walk down to the Marangu Mtoni village about 40 minutes walk and there you pick up the local bus service.  When I say local bus service it doesn't run to a timetable that has any sense or meaning. There are either 5 there or none.  Mind you those of us who now have a bus pass would say ever the same!  The service is run my individuals who own a mini bus.  They are usually beat up old vehicles that have been modified to increase the number of passengers from 13 to 20.  Two Saturday's ago I travelled to Moshi for shopping.  I was fortunate to be one of the first person on the bus as so I had a pick of seats I opted for one half way down the bus.  By the time the bus left it had 18 people on board.  The bus can be flagged down at any point on the journey.  Before we had travelled 5 miles there was 23 on the bus with 5 people standing including the conductor who seemed to get much pleasure from hanging out of the bus the whole journey.  It is certainly a way to get to know the local people.  They only drive at two speeds either flat out or stop.  On my return journey I was not so fortunate as there was limited choice of seats.  I ended up on the back seat which should have seated 4 people but which had 8 and a baby.  The baby for some reason cried every time I looked at her?!  I did consider asking to see the drivers MOT and insurance certificate before I got on but thought better of it.  They are certainly dangerous and surprise surprise we passed one in a ditch on the way home.  Happy days 

A woman's work is never done

On all my walks in the surrounding woods and forest and on the parthways down to Marangu Village I have never seen a man carrying anything.  It is the women who seem to do the fetching and carrying.  So walking up from the village after market day it is the women you see carrying the shopping. It might be sacks of grain or heavy water containers and the other day I met one carrying a grate of Kilimanjaro beers.   Their work outside shopping is also very demanding as you often see them cutting grass for their cattle but also collecting firewood to enable them to do their cooking.  These pictures where taken when I walked up into the forest above where I live.  Gathering firewood is illegal from the forest but there were many mums and daughters carrying these heavy loads on their heads.  It really is a man's world here 

The Chagga Cave -Kasimo Cave

Recently I had an opportunity to visit some local caves in the foothills of Kilimanjaro. All I was told was that these caves were interesting and worth seeing.  I imagined some ancient rock formations and an opportunity to see cave drawings.  Little did I know the surprise that was in store for me. We were met by the Director of the Kasimo Cave Ombaeli Makuni who agreed to give us a personal tour.  The first picture shows the Director at the entrance to the cave. It might look like a Chagga hut, for those of us that are more with familiar with the local culture, but it is in fact a disguised entrance to the cave. It was when we were shown inside that my pulse began to race, a little, as I looked into the hole in the ground and the homemade ladder that disappeared into the darkness.  Too late to turn back.  It was just a pity I had my white t shirt on and nice clean trousers.  The Director produced a torch as he disappeared into the hole.  Tim (another volunteer) followed and almost fell into the hole as it was very slippy as you stepped onto the ladder.  I reluctantly followed as they disappeared into the darkness - only one dim torch.  We crawled on hands and knees until we came to an opening where we could sit upright. The Director then began to give us the history of the caves.  By the way, by my definition they were not caves but tunnels dug into the ground and also ,by the way, unsupported tunnels!  Heart beating fast!!  They were dug in the 1800s when the Chagger tribe were at war with the Masi tribe and used as a hidding place when the fierce Masi warriors were raiding.  The clearing we had crawled into was the guard warriors hiding place and if the Masi found the cave they could be easily killed as they came through the entrance, as they had to crawl to get in, and their bodies stored on shelves!!! in this opening.  We crawled in deeper to find cooking areas and sleeping areas and were told that even cattle were brought down. They would stay down here for days.  There were ventilation shafts and sleeping areas.  In the darkness I  thought I felt something brush against me and I suddenly had this panic feeling and desire to get out as quickly as possible. Some rodent perhaps? I waited patiently for the return journey and hoped the Director knew his way out as I was at the back and there was just blackness. I was delighted to break out into the sunshine and I wasn't scared at all!?  Another Tanzanian experience.

Standard 7 Leaving Day Masia Marangu

In September each year Standard 7 pupils take their National Exam over several days for entry into secondary education. After the examinations primary education is then finished.  In Tanzania Primary Education starts at 7 and continues to the age of 14.  There is also pre-primary education in most schools but in some the parents have to pay for the teacher.  The Standard 7 examination takes place so that the top 50% of pupils can then go onto secondary education.  The remainder of the pupils who are not in the top 50% then either go to vocational school or private schools which again parents have to pay for.  I was privileged to be in Masia Marangu on the day of their Standard 7 leaving celebration and to be part of this.  The whole school gathered on the grassed areas in front of top table.  The leaving children danced and sang songs and read out poems that they had written and then they presented the school staff with a letter of thanks for all their efforts.  There were prizes for the head boy and girl and they presented a gift to the staff that was passed through the hands of those assembled there before arriving with the headteacher.  They all gathered for a formal photography which I took and then they ate hot  food prepared, by parents and school cook, on open fires  with staff and pupils together.  It was all very moving and a moment to be remembered.  I certainly will remember.  The next day I presented a collection of all the photographs taken to the pupils.

The Table Tennis Club

I have now established a table tennis club at the local school and had 12 regular attenders since it started.  When it first started it was like a war zone with balls rebounding of the ceiling, windows, walls and me occasionally.  But their lack of skill at this early stage was countered by their wonderful enthusiasm to learn the game. But they listened and kept at it and quickly improved  Of course my fluent Swahili helped? Or it might have been my skill of demonstration?  Or perhaps they improved despite me?  It is amazing how we explain things when language is a barrier. I danced around to encourage movement and if you 'd have seen my demonstrations without the ball been used, I think, you might have said, it was artistic.  They did laugh a lot.  But it did work. The key, I think, was because there was a language barrier I spent longer at the early stages.  If you could see these pupils playing the game now you would be amazed. You can see from the photos that the tables are joined together and there is a crack down the middle which all adds to the fun and the card board nets work fine.  Thank you to Evans of Longton who supplied the bats and balls.   We play every night after school except Friday and have also started a Saturday morning club.  Who knows they may be the Tanzanian Champions of the future.  I move onto to my next school shortly where they have even better tables.  I think the kids think I'm a professional table tennis player and who am I to tell them otherwise!! 

The weekly market

Well another week passes and I have talked about the weekly market in Maragu Mtoni.  This market operates on Monday and Thursday every week.  Its a mainly fresh vegetable market but you could buy anything here from cloths to domestic appliances.  It starts early in the morning and lasts the whole day.  It is mainly selling local produce and local people come to sell a  few potatoes, bananas or a few tomatoes but also they are people who are growing commercially.  They all display their goods and you are expected to barter for what you buy.  Normally my house girl does the shopping at the market.  I write a list and she delivers but last Thursday as schools where closed I ventured here myself.  The first thing that struck me was the quantity of goods for sale but also the variety of colours to take in and also the smartness of sellers and buys.  It was like not been seen in Waitrose without your make up on!!  Just a few favourite pictures. Enjoy

A beautiful sunset

The climate is, since I have been here, constantly around 26oc each day and hotter as you go lower.  Most days at 6.30 with the sun streaming into my bedroom it provides a real incentive to get up and start the day.  The position of the house is south facing and so I get the sun in my bedroom in the morning and in the lounge in the late afternoon.  However, the last few days I have woken to be shrouded in mist which means the cloud layer is low and we are in the cloud.  It is hardly surprising as I am at 6,000 ft but by lunch time this has cleared. I am told my locals that this is because the new moon is rising and as it rises it brings the cloud up the  mountain and that it will disappear as the moon waxes.  It is such a pity that the sun sets so early and so quickly as it would be nice to sit out in the evenings.  But once the sun goes down it becomes cooler.  I have no heating in the building and it quickly becomes sweater time.  Thankfully I have recently received a duvet cover from home to keep me warm at night. As no other sources available! I attach a picture of a particularly beautiful sunset.  I took the picture from Katy's (Project Director) balcony.  Needless to say I was sipping a nice glass of South African Rose while enjoying the moment and to make it complete.

My favourite spot

I have found my favourite spot to sit and read and take a few quiet moments.  Its a good twenty minutes uphill walk from where I live and it over looks this beautiful valley.  There is always a gentle breeze that gently rustles the feathery leaves of the trees that surround this area and provide a variegated shade.  In the valley below there is a fast flowing stream that tinkles in the background.  There is also adequate shade that suits the more mature hair styles like mine!.  The trees in the valley are beautiful but the best of all is the backcloth.  What a view!  This spot is on a track leading from Mshiri village and the only disadvantage is that everybody who passes wants to talk.  There are some places that provide peace and tranquility - this is mine.  I wish you were here to see.

The Internet connection

The internet has become a life line for me and I am always pleased to receive emails from friends and family.  I am very lucky that the building I live in has an internet cafe on the ground floor which is used constantly by locals for 1200 shillings a hour (60p) but I am even more fortunate because I have access through a wireless connection on the second floor which means I can use the internet and receive e mails when the cafe is shut.  I must say I never use after dark as it is  really dark and the movement to the top floor needs courage!  However I am an early morning man and I tend to write e mails in the evening, off line, and post first thing the next morning.  The system is slow and is fraught with  loss of text when the electricity goes down and so you have to pick your moments.  But last week we had a new faster system installed which entailed a technician from Moshi visiting and attaching a new piece of equipment to the dish on the roof of the this three story building.  I was amazed to be woken by the hammering outside the building to find a ladder being build from lengths of wood.  This was too heavy to build completely and so it was build it situ and amazingly they had to add bits so that it could get over the overhanging roof.  I was astonished to think that anybody would climb up this ladder let alone work on the platform built at the top.  But the man from Moshi arrived in smart cloths took off his shoes and did just that. See for yourself.  I was asked if I would like to test the ladders strength -I declined!!

The school garden

All schools have there own garden which they cultivate to provide the maize and beans for their daily lunch.  The children have the same lunch every day - maize and red beans.    I had noticed that land close to my accommodation have been cultivated since my last visit.  By cultivating themselves they reduce costs to the parents. Lunches are usually paid for by the provision of fire wood for the oven ovens where the food is cooked and pupils troop passed by bedroom at 6.45 am with their wood.  I saw last week with concern that  pupils were using a short handled hoe to turn over the soil and most were working in bare feet.  I didn't like to watch and I wonder what their risk assessment had been. They were swinging their hoes with such ease However, I did note they were supervised by a teacher!

Kissinger's Bar

I had an exciting evening on Friday.  I visited the local bar Kissingers.  A very hospitable landlord and a very lively clientele.  There was singing and dancing and I met some very interesting people.  Unfortunately it was so dark in there I would never recognise them again.  As the sun went down they all seem to disappear into the background.  I bought a round 8 beers which cost me £3.50.  I must go there again!!!

Thoughts after a week

I can't believe another week has almost passed by.  I'm in the office today so trying to catch up on all correspondence.  What can I tell you about out here that will give you a flavour of what it's like. Live is very poly poly -slowly.  The climate is wonderful.  Even if the day starts cloudy it brightens up as soon as the sun comes out.  The sun streams into my bedroom window by 7.00 am.  Where I'm based 6000 ft its mainly 26 oc but as you go lower it warms up and in Moshi in has been in the 30s.  The sunsets are wonderful at 6.30 but it becomes pitch black by 7.  The stars are something to see - so clear and the milky way needs to be seen to be believed. I am getting used to being in the building at night -its so dark and quiet when the sun goes down.  The hardest part is the electricity which is hit and miss.  Its hardest when your cooking- you have to be prepared torch in hand and kerosene stoves read.I had some friends around for dinner and was dreading it going off.  Camping skills are useful.  Having a house girl is very strange.  She cleans everyday and washes clothes and irons.  I could get used to this.  I was embarrassed the first time she washed to find my undies out on the bushes for all to view.

The local community have a generousity of spirit and make you most welcome.  I went to the local bar yesterday - Kissengers! I'm not sure you could call it bar.  It was a mud hut with a few chairs inside.  As darkness descended you lost sight of everybody there.  Around of 8 beers cost me £3.50.  I shall visit there again.

The work has started and I have been to meetings at two of the schools.  I'm starting a table tennis club tomorrow with improvised tables and nets and a big thank you to Evans of Longton for their kind donation of equipment.  I am starting work shortly with infants.

At the moment I still feel I am holiday but I am in the office at 7.30 am each day!!

Thoughts after a week

The Leaving Party

Last Saturday I was invited to a leaving party for the computer technician which started at 5 pm.  It was held at a bar half way between my accommodation and the Marangu Village. There was plenty of drink and cooked food to eat.  All very civilised and friendly with lots of chatting with different people.  When it came to the speech time formal exchanges were given and presents were produced.  At this point the chanting began and the parcel was handed from guest to guest who had to sing the chant and sway to the rhythm of the music.  Two beers and no inhibitions I whole heartedly joined in the singing and dancing and then the present finally reached the recipient  Toni who open the box.  When the second present came around the singing  and dancing continued.  This was a bulky present and in the fading light looked like any other present. I think the saying is 'a live chicken in the hand is worth ten in the bush'  All good fun.

The First week

Departure to Tanzania

Hi to all - this a new experience for me -blogging that is.  I depart for Tanzania on the 28th August.  My e mail address is robert.phillips210@ntlworld.com.  My postal address is PO BOX 737, Marangu, Tanzania.  It needs to be an exact address as shown or it will be unlikely to reach me.  Parcels from home are very welcome.

I shall be based in a community building on the site of MIshiri Primary School.  It is at 6000ft in the middle of an equitorial forest and 40 minutes work to the nearest metalled road. It is beautiful countryside and there is much to be explored.   The accommodation is good with water, flush toilets and electricity and I will be based on the third floor of the building.  It has all the luxuries of home!!  However electricity is very hit and miss and no booster system so by 8 pm its usually head torch time.

The nearest village is Marangu which again is about 40 minutes down hill at 3500ft and it takes a little longer to walk back.  There is a bus pick up here to Moshi the nearest large town.  It is here where I shall shop each week for food.  The bus service is interesting, crowded and a good chance to meet the locals and hair raising (no problem for me). Only two speeds stop and flat out.

I shall be working mainly with three primary schools, their staff, heaadteachers and District Education Officers.  I shall also be working on Introducing a community play and sport programme.  Evans of Longton Sports Equipment Company have kindly sponsored all equipment and are also paying for all transport of the equipment.

At the moment I am trying to get all my affairs at home sorted and making the hard decision as what I can take with me - only 20 kilos.  Also trying to fit in all the lunch and dinner dates with friends and family plus occasional games of squash with Arthur Cross and tennis with Phil Gadsby.  Its a hard life this retirement!

This is a test page.  Let me know through e mail if your were able to access this